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 Post subject: inverted fork rebuild
 Post Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 4:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 4:12 pm
Posts: 4
1. First, use a strap wrench to remove the swoopy seal cover. (See fig. 10 and 11)
2. Depending on model, use a spanner or hex wrench to remove phantom body cap. (Hex wrench with drilled hole for brake line available from American Susp.)
3. Pull steel braided line out.
4. Remove the bottom out.
5. Drain oil, cycle shock and remove Bottom-out spring, spring top, and push rod tube.
6. Clean and inspect all parts. Make sure NOTHING is damaged. Check your chrome.
7. Inner tube then goes into vise. Use a breaker bar to twist
8. Pull out lower leg, remove main spring, swoopy seal, and remove inner tube, with piston.
9. Use a pick to remove seal snap ring. Use screwdriver and hammer at end of seal to remove it. Wipe inside all clean to remove any debris.
10. Place new seal in with the numbers facing out; make sure seal bottoms out.
11. Install cir-clip, when you hear the snap, the clamp is fully in.
12. Use condom over inner tube so as not to cut the seal. Slide inner tube all the way in; push it down.
13. Pull swoopy cover seal over, first before installing leg.
14. Spring pointed down, with push rod tube on top, washer between spring and cir clamp.
15. Run brake line through inner tube. Make sure that it is COMPLETELY STRAIGHT so it does not knot up.
16. Use ‘242 Lock-Tite’ on lower leg threads once around tight and with 90 lbs. of torque.
17. Clean up all debris off of the brake line.
18. Slide in spring top with 3-inch spring.
19. Use 3/8 rod to even it out. Make sure push rod is over and down in.
20. Bottom out steel tube goes in next.
21. Put a loop in the brake line. Make sure you walk it the same way through and slide it part way down.
22. Place cir-clip around brake line. Brake line loop to go right under threads.
23. Fill fork with 5-weight oil. [For V8 cycles or +0 and below use 10 wt. oil]
24. Tape end of steel braided line. Dip it in Vaseline. Push it through body cap slowly and not to cut the seal.
25. Put on a table to cycle oil, ‘242 Lock-Tite’ seal cover; one drop hand tight.


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 Post subject: Re: inverted fork rebuild
 Post Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 4:12 pm
Posts: 4
see the picture for a breakdown


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 Post subject: Re: inverted fork rebuild
 Post Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 4:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 4:15 pm
Posts: 2
Can you post pictures of "1. First, use a strap wrench to remove the swoopy seal cover. (See fig. 10 and 11)" Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: inverted fork rebuild
 Post Posted: Sat Mar 21, 2009 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 4:15 pm
Posts: 2
In step 7 you put inner tube in vise and use breaker bar to twist, this step is to break lower leg loose?


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 Post subject: Re: inverted fork rebuild
 Post Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 4:59 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2008 2:37 pm
Posts: 17
Yes, you need to seperate the axle clamp from the inner tube so that the inner tube may be slid past the bearings and seals.
In my opinion this is the only difficult part of a rebuild. the axle clamp is attached to the inner tube with 90 foot pounds of tourqe and lock tite.
If you let the inner tube slip in the vise, or you do not use soft jaws that grab around the inner tube you may dammage the inner tube. If the inner tube gets damaged the seals will probably be torn by the damaged inner tube. If you make the inner tube out of round the seal will not seal properly.
Use the proper clamp for the inner tube and you should have no problems.

Check this site for more pictures

http://www.garagegirls.tv/album/forks/


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